Product improvements are usually incremental over large spans of time. Every now and again however there comes a giant leap forward. Remote controls for TV’s. Touchscreens for phones. Hats for heads!?! OK, maybe that last one is a mute point.
The hot tub industry has now seen a similar leap forward.
As every hot tub owner knows, a hot tub needs constant maintenance for the water to stay clean. This is done through either bromine or chlorine and is a daily task. As much as everyone loves their hot tub if you ask a thousand hot tub owners if there is one drawback the chances are 99% would say “Water sanitisation”.
Second hand hot tubs do become available every now and again but there are many things to watch out for. Of course this post could be construed as an attempt to stop you buying a second hand hot tub but it isn’t.
We receive calls daily from people whom have purchased a second hand hot tub only to find themselves in the middle of a nightmare. This post will highlight some of the most common problems people find when buying a hot tub and hopefully will help you make the right choice.
Many people traditionally switch the hot tub off throughout the winter months either to save on heating costs or simply because they don’t see the hot tub as something that will get much use throughout the winter.
Modern insulation methods however mean that running a hot tub in the winter is only fractionally more expensive than running a hot tub in the summer – we are literally talking pennies per week. Also, the mistake of thinking a hot tub is just for summer is quite common but entirely untrue. Hot tubs are built for some of the coldest climates on earth.
Hot tubs can be divided into two distinct categories, 13 amp or their higher powered 32 amp siblings. So what are the key differences between the two and what if any, are the advantages to the user?
13 amp models require a simple domestic supply; they typically feature one modest water pump. The limited electrical supply is divided between pump and heating system, hence virtually all 13 amp hot tubs will be unable to heat the water whilst on their high speed mode (full power). Contrary to popular opinion this doesn’t mean these spas loose heat quickly, quality examples actually perform very strongly in this respect. However 32 amp variants take advantage of extra power on tap; the heating element remaining on whilst in full use reducing heat loss during this time. This process proves significant in both performance and energy usage.
The ‘SPA FROG’ bromine based water care system is an alternative to chlorine that makes hot tub water as simple as possible. Designed so the frog can simply be set and left to do its job. The following guide covers everything you will need to know for using your ‘SPA FROG’ system.
Do NOT add SpaFrog cartridges to your hot tub until the water has reached operating temperature (typically 38 degrees.)
Hot tub water requires care and attention to keep it crystal clear and hygienically safe for use. When using chlorine for your hot tub water care the following guide will help you keep everything in tip top shape.
After using the hot tub, chlorine needs to be added, straight after use (Do not leave the hot tub unsanitised overnight). A ‘tablespoon’ is the approximate amount required, this can be checked using test strips. Even if the hot tub has not been used, chlorine needs to be added in a smaller amount.
Hot tub foam is one of the most common problems you are likely to come across when using your hot tub. It isn’t necessarily a bad thing and won’t ruin or damage your tub but it can get in the way of a good soak.
Foam is most often caused by detergent in bathing suits, make-up, hair sprays, gels and other cosmetic grooming products so it is clean, it’s just a bit of a pain to deal with. It also comes from natural body oils and high levels of chemicals (total dissolved solids) that build over time in the hot tub water.
Prevention is always better than the cure when it comes to hot tub foam. Once the foam becomes a constant pain and you need to use spa no-foam every time you use the tub it is probably time to change the water.
Hot tubs are designed for daily use spanning many years. Consequently, quality examples are engineered to run cost effectively with a collective of features that ensure maximum heat retention and minimal operating costs.
Hot tubs are generally insulated in one of two alternative ways, the ‘full foam’ or ‘partial foam’ method. Both methods prevent upward heat loss using a thick, tapered foam cover that remains on the hot tub whenever not in use. The similarity ends here as full foaming involves encasing the hot tub internals completely in a close-cell foam, with the exception of the area immediately surrounding the electronic components. The logic here of course, is to prevent cold air from circulating around the pipework and retain internal.
Here at The Hot Tubs Superstore we take our customers health and safety very seriously. It is important to us that each and every one of you enjoys your tub to the maximum. This post takes a more serious tone than most of the posts you will read here but its a post that needs to be made.
As with everything there are best practices when using a hot tub. The following guide will go over the main points that should be kept in mind with general hot tub use.
1. Clean water.
When you first purchase a hot tub it should come with a chemical kit. This usually includes Continue reading
Domestic hot tubs are a one-piece sizeable unit, typically weighing around 400kg. So quite how are these appliances delivered? And does the average UK home provide the necessary requirements?
The first answer lies with the transit of hot tubs to the point of delivery, typically the customer’s house. This carriage is done with a specifically designed delivery system named ‘SpaDolly’. This ingenious trailer/trolley initally tows behind a delivery vehicle to location. Once ready to disembark the hot tub, the tailgate pivots under the spa as it stands upright, creating a trolley on which the hot tub can be pushed into location.